The Gift

Dear Chuck

Long time no speak. I hope this email finds you well. I was wondering how serious you were in actually thinking of climbing Fujisan next month (YES, next month!). Cheers! mariko

And so it began.

As a little boy growing up in the late 1950s, before cable TV and The Travel Channel my only windows to the world were through books and magazines and a View-Master 3-D slide viewer that belonged to my sister.  In books I remember seeing those classic pictures of snow covered Mt. Fuji complete with cherry blossoms in the foreground and thinking that some day I’m going to conquer that mountain.  But growing up in the Appalachians of rural Virginia I knew it would likely never happen.  Now it has happened.  For my friends Mariko san and Ayako san this was a first for them as well.  They were also working hard to ensure I was rewarded with good memories.  Thank you Mariko san and Ayako san you have succeeded. I have good memories that will last forever.

We were blessed with beautiful weather and the bus ride from Shinjuku Station to Fuji go-gome (Fuji Fifth Station) was uneventful though arrival was delayed due to the Obon holiday traffic. While you may want to avoid doing this during Obon, I believe that by doing so, you will miss an interesting aspect of climbing Mount Fuji and that is the unique experience of ascending the mountain among hundreds, no, thousands of equally minded people.

After lunch and acclimating to the altitude we set out on the Kawaguchiko Trail to the summit.  Anyone in good physical condition can climb Mt. Fuji.  But the elevation makes it difficult and it should be considered a mental and physical challenge. The crowds make it easy to take rest breaks and the view from anywhere on the trail is enjoyable.  We reached the Eighth Station at about 5:00 PM after only 4 ½ hours of walking and an elevation gain of 3100 feet; we were now at 10662 feet, only 1726 feet to go.  Here we had reservations at a hut for supper and a futon for a few hours rest.  The sleeping arrangements packed us in like sardines and it was not very easy for me to get comfortable.  There was a lot of activity during the night and a constant line of pilgrims making their way up the trail.  At about 11:30 PM we were up and making preparations to continue our journey as well.  The wind had picked up after sunset and the temperature had gotten much colder and I was pleased I had my thermal hat and gloves. We reached the summit about two hours before sunrise and tried to stay warm and out of the wind while we waited. The sunrise arrived in the midst of cheers and shouts of BANZAI, BANZAI and was indeed magnificent and enjoyed by all.  It was worth the effort to witness it. We spent a few hours at the summit and walked around the crater before descending. The trip down was less enjoyable due to the steep incline and loose footing but mercifully only took about three hours.

I was back at my hotel in Akasaka by 4:00 PM standing in line to check in. Dusty, dirty, sweaty, and smelly with my backpack and Fuji walking stick, adorned with 15 burnt-in stamps from every hut that offered branding (at 200 yen a pop); every stamp signifying a phase of my accomplishment. The desk clerk gave me the once over, especially the stick. After signing in he went for the room key but instead removed a piece of paper from the key box and tore it up. He removed a key from another location and presented it to me, “I have different room for you. It is not the room typical for your reservations." He rang for the bellman to show me the way. On the elevator the young man asked what I had been doing and I said I have been to Fuji san and this morning I saw the most beautiful sunrise I think I have ever seen.  He thanked me and was glad I had enjoyed it. When he opened the door to the room I was impressed. The room was a huge suite with a leather couch and two leather chairs. There was a large dining/conference table for six, two baths, separate shower and more closet space than I could fill. “Yes, it is a very nice room," he said, "May I open the drapes?” I replied no but he went to the window and pulled them open anyway, all thirty feet of curtains. There he proudly spread his arms and said, “Fuji san! You can see it from your room.” There sure enough in the growing darkness was the distant image of Mt. Fuji.

Click on either image for more photos